Entremet cu susan negru

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Monotonia de arome din cofetarie nu o voi intelege niciodata. Cumva ne complacem in aceeasi ciocolata, acelasi gust de zahar in cantitate exagerata, aceeasi teama de a folosi aromele in slujba cofetarului. Nu ne place deloc sa iesim din sfera de confort. Cee ce e pacat, caci avem la dispozitie o gama de arome atat de vasta si de interesanta, inclusiv usor imprumutata din ingrediente specifice bucatariei.

entremet cu susan negru

Acest entremet cu susan negru este un exemplu clar despre cum aroma poate veni de unde nici nu te astepti initial. Ori susanul negru nu e un ingredient prea uzitat in Romania. Deci aroma lui nu este prea cunoscuta si in general nu te poti astepta sa fie usor acceptata, daramite apreciata. In cofetariile de renume din lume insa, este o aroma imblanzita si se combina minunat cu vanilie si fructe. Si dupa ce multa vreme prajituri care il contin mi-au invadat feed-ul de pe Instagram, am decis ca i-a venit momentul. L-am pus intr-un mousse de o culoare extrem de interesanta (gri inchis), alaturi de o marmelada de zmeura si un cremeux de vanilie, finisand cu un blat de ciocolata. Nimic complicat, dar cu totul neasteptat. Pasta de susan negru o obtineti procesand in robotul de bucatarie susan negru. Va deveni usor usor pasta caci incepe sa isi elibereze uleiurile. Pastrati in vas inchis ermetic si folositi cand aveti nevoie.

Imi place sa provoc oamenii sa iasa din cutia lor, sa le arat ca dincolo de obisnuinta exista o lume intreaga de descoperit. Trebuie doar sa incercam! Rezultatul a fost cat se poate de asteptat: unora le-a placut, altora deloc, unii nici nu au gustat. Si mi s-a intarit credinta ca nu poti face prajituri sau mancare pe gustul tuturor, mai ales cand vorbim de arome care nu se incadreaza in profilul a ceea ce sunt ei deja obisnuiti. Cu ciocolata de exemplu, e foarte simplu caci toti am mancat cel putin un desert (de fapt, nenumarate deserturi!) ce o contine la viata noastra, asa incat atunci cand o gustam din nou, memoria gustului fiecaruia o leaga de alte experiente din trecut si ne simtim in siguranta, ca si cum avem control asupra situatiei, o cunoastem. Cand insa este un gust cu totul nou, creierul construieste o carare nou, o memorie noua si nu stie initial unde sa o incadreze. De aceea se spune ca inainte de a da un verdict final trebuie sa gusti de cel putin trei ori un produs. Scopul e sa ajungi sa il intelegi in profunzime, sa treci de teama initiala si sa descoperi mai departe. S-ar putea chiar sa-ti placa de fapt (nu radeti, dar asa am patit eu cu broccoli… puteam sa jur ca nu imi place, insa i-am dat totusi cateva sanse si ne-am imprietenit).

Verdictul final?! Cu siguranta voi reface tortul. Va mai fi la fel?! Cel mai probabil nu, dar asta pentru ca imi setez noi provocari mereu. Pana atunci insa, va las reteta mai jos in speranta ca il veti face si voi si imi veti lasa un mesaj cu privire la cat de mult sau putin v-a placut si ce ati schimba la el daca ar fi nevoie.

P.S. – Fotografiile sunt realizate de minunata Ionela de la Pupile Gustative

Entremet cu susan negru

Olguta – Pastry Workshop
Acest entremet este diferit de orice alta reteta! Dar este delicios si merita incercat macar o data!
Rezultat –2 torturi
Size: 16cm round

Ingrediente
 

Blat cu ciocolata

  • 100 g galbenus
  • 100 g zahar alb A
  • 100 g ciocolata neagra 70% (topita)
  • 170 g albus
  • 100 g zahar alb B
  • 120 g faina alba 000
  • 1 g sare
  • 100 g unt (topit)

Cremeux vanilie

  • 125 g lapte
  • 125 g smantana pentru frisca
  • 1 pastaie de vanilie (taiata in 1/2 pe lungime)
  • 60 g galbenus
  • 45 g zahar alb
  • 2 g gelatina + 12g apa

Marmelada de zmeura

  • 120 g piure de zmeura
  • 100 g zmeura congelata (sau proaspata daca doriti)
  • 45 zahar alb + 3g pectina NH
  • 10 g suc de lamaie
  • 2 g gelatina + 12g apa

Mousse de susan negru

  • 300 g lapte
  • 1 pastaie de vanilie (taiata pe 1/2 pe lungime)
  • 85 g galbenus
  • 80 g zahar alb
  • 100 g pasta de susan negru
  • 8 g gelatina + 48g apa
  • 310 g smantana pentru frisca (spumata)
Makes: 16cm round

Instructiuni

Blat cu ciocolata

  • Mixati galbenusul cu zaharul alb A pana devine deschis la culoare, spumos.
  • Incorporati cu spatula ciocolata topita.
  • Separat, spuati albusurile cu zaharul B pana obtineti o bezea lucioasa si ferma.
  • Incorporati bezeaua in baza de galbenus, alternand cu faina cernuta cu sarea.
  • In cele din urma, la final, adaugati untul topit.
  • Intindeti blatul la 4mm grosime.
  • Coaceti la 170°C pentru 10-12 minute.
  • Raciti apoi taiati 2 discuri de blat de 14cm. Pastrati deoparte.

Cremeux de vanilie

  • Combinati laptele, smantana si vanilia si incalziti. Dati deoparte si infuzati sub folie 10 minute. Inlaturati pastaia de vanilie.
  • Amestecati galbenusul cu zaharul, apoi turnati in fir subtire laptele.
  • Gatiti la 82°C apoi dati deoparte si adaugati gelatina hidratata in prealabil.
  • Strecurati. Turnati egal in 2 forme de 14cm diametru si congelati.

Marmelada cu zmeura

  • Incalziti piureul cu zmeura la 40°C.
  • Adaugati zaharul amestecat cu pectina si dati in clocot, apoi gatiti 1 minut extra.
  • Dati deoparte si adaugati zeama de lamaie apoi gelatina hidratata.
  • Turnati in 2 forme de 14cm Ø. Congelati.

Mousse de susan negru

  • Realizati un creme anglaise din lapte si vanilie, plus galbenus si zahar (exact ca la cremeuz de vanilie), apoi adaugati gelatina si strecurati peste pasta de susan negru. Omogenizati cu un blender.
  • Raciti aceasta baza la 30°C, apoi incorporati smantana spumata. Daca mousse-ul e prea lichid, dati la rece 10 minute.

Pentru asamblare

  • Sigilati 2 inele de tort de 16cm Ø cu folie alimentara si asezati-le pe o tava.
  • Tapetati cu folie de acetat.
  • Umpleti formele pe 1/4 cu mousse, asezati insertia de zmeura, apoi din nou putin mousse si insertia de vanilie, urmata de ultima portie de mousse si discurile de blat.
  • Congelati minim 8 ore, apoi glazurati dupa dorinta si decorati asemenea. Eu am folosit velvet negru si chantilly de ciocolata alba.
Keyword Fructe, Susan, Zmeura
Ai incercat reteta?Mentioneaza @olguta_oana sau tag #pastryworkshop!

ENGLISH

My dessert or cake trials start like an adventure. I often try out recipes that taste wise come close to my favorite flavours (caramel, praline, pistachio, citrus fruits or other fresh fruits, chocolate), but more often my trials involve ingredients (or techniques) that I haven’t tried before. To me, this kind of tests are what allow me to learn more and especially develop my taste buds. Sure, sometimes they succeed and get included in a class or end up on the blog, other times they fail and never see the daylight again (just saying this for the drama, but theoretically, a failed recipe can happened for so many reasons that is good to often give it at least one more chance… which I usually do, especially if my mind is really set up on making it work).

This Black Sesame Entremet ‘s idea started long time ago when I used to make tahini at home and read about this black sesame paste. I saw it so often used in desserts that it made me wonder how it tastes like. What seemed more interesting to me was the color though – the dark grey speckled with black pieces of sesame looked mesmerizing. So years passed by and these desserts kept popping on my Instagram feed from so many pastry chefs. There must be something there, I said.

After a bit of research, I ended up making this black sesame entremet containing a black sesame mousse with a raspberry compote and a vanilla cremeux. Keep it simple with bold flavors the rule says! Plus, apart from pairing well, these flavors also bring contrasting colors so the effect at the end is quite interesting!

black sesame entremet

The final test however was going to be the tasting! My first bite told me this black sesame entremet was a success, but I wasn’t gonna settle with that because black sesame is such a rarely used ingredient in Romania that I felt the need to approach other people to taste it as well. I just needed more opinions. I think it was one of the most interesting experiences ever – to give a piece of cake to 20 people at once at a class and ask for a feedback. The result was as diverse as one can expect – some loved it, some only liked it, some hated it, some didn’t even try it. What I realised however is that one can never please everyone, especially with new flavors since there is no taste memory they can appeal to. In case of chocolate for instance, since everyone had chocolate or a dessert containing it at least once (who am I kidding?! .. countless times) in their life, once you taste a dessert, your taste memory immediately connects it with your previous experiences and you know what to expect, you feel secure and in control. But with something this new, there is a certain fear, the „not knowing what to expect” kind of situation, the weirdness of the experience in itself. Also, a proper testing requires trying the product at least three times before deciding if you actually like it or not – and it makes so much senses. Because flavors and how they develop on everyone’s taste buds is so easily influenced not just by past experiences, but also by what you ate before tasting, your mood that day (I am not talking here about professional testers, of course, just usual, regular people).

Final opinion? Yes, I will be making this cake again. Will it be the same?! Probably not, since I always try to improve. But for now this is the recipe and I wish you would make it and write back about the taste. Let’s take this tasting test to another level!

Black Sesame Entremet

Olguta – Pastry Workshop
Black sesame is such an interesting ingredient! It's so fun to use in dessert, although rather difficult to pair with other flavors. It does shine next to vanilla and raspberry though.
Prep Time 1 hour
Cook Time 1 hour
Chilling 12 hours
Rezultat –2 cakes
Size: 16cm round

Ingrediente
 

Chocolate sponge:

  • 100 g egg yolk
  • 100 g white sugar A
  • 100 g dark chocolate 70% (melted)
  • 170 g egg white
  • 100 g white sugar B
  • 120 g all-purpose flour
  • 1 g salt
  • 100 g butter (melted)

Vanilla cremeux:

  • 125 g milk
  • 125 g heavy cream
  • 1 vanilla pod (split lengthwise)
  • 60 g egg yolk
  • 45 g white sugar
  • 2 g gelatin + 12g water

Raspberry compote:

  • 120 g raspberry puree
  • 100 g frozen raspberry (thawed (or fresh if you prefer))
  • 45 white sugar + 3g pectin NH
  • 10 g lemon juice
  • 2 g gelatin + 12g water

Black sesame mousse:

  • 300 g milk
  • 1 vanilla pod (split lengthwise)
  • 85 g egg yolk
  • 80 g white sugar
  • 100 g black sesame paste
  • 8 g gelatin + 48g water
  • 310 g heavy cream (whipped)
Makes: 16cm round

Instructiuni

Chocolate sponge:

  • Mix the egg yolk and sugar A until light and pale.
  • Add the melted chocolate with a spatula.
  • Separately, mix the whites and sugar B until you get a stiff and shiny meringue.
  • Fold the meringue into the egg yolk base, adding the flour sifted with salt at the same time.
  • The last going in is the butter.
  • Spread the batter at 4mm thickness and bake at 170C for 10-12 minutes.
  • Cool down then cut 2 discs of 14cm. Place them aside.

Vanilla cremeux:

  • Combine the milk, cream and vanilla pod in a pot and heat them up. Place aside and cover with foil. Infuse for 10 minutes.
  • Take out the vanilla pod.
  • Mix the egg yolk and sugar in a bowl. Slowly pour in the hot infusion then place on heat and cook until 82C.
  • Remove from heat and stir in the bloomed gelatina.
  • Pour into 2 14cm cake rings. Freeze.

Raspberry compote:

  • Combine the raspberry puree and whole raspberries and heat up to 40C.
  • Mix the pectin with the sugar and add it to the raspberry mix.
  • Bring to a boil then cook for 1 minute more.
  • Take away from heat and stir in the lemon juice then the bloomed gelatin.
  • Pour into 2 14cm cake rings and freeze.

Black sesame mousse:

  • Bloom the gelatin.
  • Heat up the milk with the vanilla pod and infuse for 10 minutes covered with foil. Take out the pod.
  • Mix the sugar and egg yolk then pour in the hot milk.
  • Return back on heat and cook until 82C.
  • Take off heat and stir in the gelatin then strain over the black sesame paste and blend well.
  • Allow this base to cool down to 30C then fold in the whipped cream.

To assemble the cake:

  • Seal 2 16cm cake rings with foil on one of the sides and place on a tray or cake board.
  • Place acetate on the sides of the cake rings.
  • Fill the rings 1/4 with black sesame mousse then place the raspberry inserts. Cover with a bit more mousse, followed by the vanilla cremeux inserts. The final batch of mousse is next, followed by the chocolate sponge cake.
  • Freeze the cakes at least 8 hours.
  • Unmold then cover with glaze or velvet spray as you wish. Decorate according to your imagination. I used black velvet spray and chantilly.
  • Allow to stay in the fridge for 4-5 hours before serving.
Keyword Black sesame paste, Entremets, Raspberry, Vanilla
Ai incercat reteta?Mentioneaza @olguta_oana sau tag #pastryworkshop!
entremet cu susan negru

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18 Comments

  1. Buna, Olguta!

    As vrea sa incerc si eu acest ‘tort negru/ gri’ Ador susanul negru. O intrebare: ce este acel velvet negru cu care ai ‘imbracat’ tortul?
    Multunesc,
    Monica

  2. Buna Olguta. Din pacate, nu am robot performant, asa ca nu as putea obtine pasta, din seminte. Dar, gasesc de vanzare tahini din susan negru. Sincer, nu am idee daca are ceva adaugat sau s-ar putea folosi asa cum e. Tu ce crezi? ? Are rost sa cumpar?

    1. Vulpito, atata timp cat nu are nimic adaugat ar trebui sa fie ok. Verifica eticheta inainte. In mod normal tahini nu are nimic adaugat, poate doar putin ulei vegetal, ceea ce nu ar trebui sa fie o problema.

  3. Hello there.. I realize this is an old post, but I landed on it today and I am absolutely mesmerized by it – I was wondering if maybe using the black sesame paste component as an insert instead of the overall mousse could be one way to make more people enjoy it? I have black sesame paste and have been searching for ways to use it… however, I bake for work colleagues that do not have a very adventurous palate…

    what do you think could pair with a black sesame insert? would a honey mousse work? would you use maybe a lemony mousse????

    thank you!

      1. Thank you! I just made a „babka” type loaf with black sesame paste in the filling.. it turned out wonderful. I am truly fascinated by that ingredient. Will play with your cake idea soon!

  4. Buna!As vrea sa fac un singur tort din cantitatile de mai sus. Ce dimensiuni ar trebui sa aiba tavile? Multumesc!

      1. Interesant,chiar mă gândeam ce pot face cu susanul negru după ce l-am cumpărat din neatentie confundat cu macul,mac pe care voiam sa-l folosesc la cozonac ????..acum o sa încerc sa văd ce iese????

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